Restaurant review: Novikov Italian, Mayfair, London

Novikov is a high-octane and glamorous restaurant owned by Russian émigré Arkady Novikov. Located in the heart of Mayfair, Novikov Restaurant & Bar combines a superlative culinary offering in chic surroundings, says Assif Majid.

Having read some of the online reviews, we were slightly apprehensive about dining at the establishment. However, we were pleasantly surprised. The large in scale restaurant boasts marble-floors and high ceilings, a well-stocked wine library and plenty of foliage.

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The venue is divided into two distinct dining areas. The Asian Restaurant specialises in Chinese and Pan Asian cuisine, with a menu designed by Japanese-trained head chef Jeff Tyler. Tyler is known for his love of experimenting with different textures, flavours and ingredients, a talent that is much in evidence in dishes such as king crab with Penang sauce and pork belly with spicy glaze. Also on the menu is an extensive range of sushi, dim sum and barbecued and charcoaled dishes, spicy lamb cutlets and miso black cod included.

The Italian Restaurant meanwhile offers regional Italian fare with a contemporary twist. Created by Marco Torri, the menu comprises a superb assortment of antipasti, tartare di salmone o tonno and carpaccio di manzo among them, followed by a selection of homemade pasta. Fish dishes are of the calibre of branzino arrosto con caponata (roasted wild sea bass fillet served with sweet and sour Sicilian vegetables), whilst meat includes piccione al forno con cavolo nero (oven-roasted pigeon with sautéed cavolo Nero).

Our table was booked for 8pm on a Monday in the Italian rooms of Novikov. The London restaurant was pretty quiet – there was a mixture of well-heeled Middle Eastern, German and Russian diners.

The menu is extensive – and this proved a problem in deciding what we wanted to devour. Our choices for starters included rocket salad from Lazio with 24 month aged Parmesan and balsamic vinegar. And a seafood salad with scallops, Sicilian prawns, squid, octopus and fresh chili and sweet paprika. The rocket salad was perfect and our guest really enjoyed the seafood, which was fresh and delicious. Round two included Dover sole meuniere with capers and lemon. And also Welsh lamb cutlets with new season tomatoes (both mains were generously sized). The best part of the meal was the dessert. The crunchy chocolate praline served with blood orange sorbet was the bomb – we can’t recommend this enough – we will be going back for more.

Novikov has been described as a ‘mecca for international jetsetters’ that attracts the uber rich and beautiful. However, we found the restaurant to be authentic that caters for all budgets, and not just its celebrity clientele including the likes of Rihanna, Prince Harry and Bar Refaeliand. With attentive staff and a glamorous setting Novikov is a winner all round.

Novokov Restaurant & Bar, 50a Berkeley Street, Mayfair, London, W1J 8HA, England, novikovrestaurant.co.uk

 Images courtesy of ©Assif Majid and Novikov Restaurant & Bar

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